Once rooting takes place (normally 15 to 20 days, depending on what you’re rooting), remove the plastic covering to expose rooted plants to normal atmosphere.
When the plants develop a sizeable root structure remove them to individual pots of a size that enables them to get somewhat root-bound. Believe it or not, a plant will do better with a concentrated root structure. If planted in too large a pot, roots just get stringy and plants suffer.
Taking cuttings aren’t restricted to just flowering plants or vines. This may also be done with any “woody” shrub or ornamental, keeping in mind time involved to accomplish a project of this type. This may best be left to nurserymen because it sometimes take several years to develop any sizeable plant and may even require grafting, which is yet another subject.
Experimentation is in a gardener’s makeup. I guess that is why new “stuff” is coming on the market every year. The largest growers and developers are constantly hybridizing and searching for yet another prize winner to tantalize us with.
A grower in Middlebury by the name of Walter Welch, who lived on a small farm at the western edge of “Witmer Hill” (Wayne Street), grew and very successfully hybridized Irises.
He developed the first dwarf Iris in 1950 and created many new colors and strains. He was well known in the horticultural society winning the coveted American Iris Societies Caparne Award with his entry “Primus” (1950), followed by seven more for the same award — “April Morn” (1954), “Blazon” (1955), “Sparkling Eyes” (1956), “Veri Gay” (1958), “Cherry Spot” (1960), “Fashion Lady” (1964), and “Atomic Blue” (1965). I was always amazed at his dedication and work ethic.